Zensai Parfait

(Thanks Kirk & Ei-Lun for letting us consult the Washoku cookbook!)

Zensai Parfait

Nearly every traditional tea parlor in Japan will offer some variation on the warm, sweet adzuki bean concoction known as zensai. My updated version of this washoku classic is a multitextured, multilayered affair I pile into tall glasses and call a parfait. I top a scoop of green tea ice cream with a shower of crunchy corn flakes (trust me on this - it works) and a spoonful of warm, chunky bean jam (think hot fudge sauce), repeat the order, and then top the whole thing off with a dollop of whipped cream and a bright yellow chestnut.

Serves 4

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream, icy cold
1 1/2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 kuri no kanrō ni (chestnuts in syrup)
1 cup Chunky Red Bean Jam (see below)
1 pint Green Tea Ice Cream (see below)
1 cup unsweetened corn flakes or other whole-grain cereal

In a bowl, using a handheld electric mixer or a whisk, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Sprinkle in the powdered sugar and continue to beat until the cream stiffens. Drizzle in the vanilla extract and beat until well mixed and stiff peaks hold their shape. Fit a pastry bag with a star tip and fill the bag with the whipped cream. Chill until ready to use.

Drain the chestnuts, returning any excess syrup to the glass jar in which they were packed.

Place the red bean jam in a small pan or in the top of a double boiler. Add 1 tablespoon of the chestnut syrup, place the pan over low heat, and heat, stirring to prevent scorching. When the sauce is glossy, thick, and slightly aromatic, after about 2 minutes, remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature, or chill in the refrigerator.

In each of 4 tall glasses, assemble the parfaits. Being with a small scoop of ice cream. Next add some corn flakes, and then spoon in some of the bean jam. Repeat to make another layer each of the ice cream, corn flakes, and bean jam.

To finish each parfait, pipe out a swirling mound of whipped cream on top, and them set a single chestnut at a jaunty angle on the peak. Serve immediately with long-handled spoons.


Chunky Red Bean Jam
Tsubu An

Makes 2 cups

3/4 cup dried adzuki beans
About 7 cups cold water
3/4 cup white sugar
2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar, preferably kuro-zatō (also known as kokutō, literally "black sugar")
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon light-colored soy sauce

As with all dried bean cookery, the beans must be carefully washed to remove straw, pebbles, or other unwanted matter. Place the washed and drained beans in a 3-quart pot with 2 1/2 cups of the water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a steady but not very vigorous simmer. Cook the beans for about 8 minutes, or until the water turns wine red. Drain the beans, discarding this first batch of cooking liquid (this procedure is referred to as shibumi kiri, or "removing astringency"). Rinse the pot to remove an aku (froth, scum, or film) that might be clinging to the sides.

Return the beans to the clean pot, add 3 more cups of the water, and place over medium heat. When the liquid comes to a boil, adjust the heat to maintain a steady but gentle simmer. Do not cover the pot. Cook until the water barely covers the beans, about 30 minutes. Add 1/2 cup more of the cold water (this is called bikkuri mizu, or "surprise water") and continue to cook over medium heat, skimming away froth and loose skins periodically. Repeat the "surprise water" treatment every 15-20 minutes for35-40 minutes, or until the beans are tender and give slightly when pinched.

Add the white sugar, stir, and simmer for 20 minutes (after the addition of the sugar, the sauce will darken and appear less cloudy). Add the brown sugar, stir, and simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the sauce becomes glossy and very thick (using a spoon or spatula, you should be able to draw a line that remains visible for several moments along the bottom of the pan). Add the salt and soy sauce (this will mellow the intense sweetness of the sauce and help "set" the consistency) and stir to mix well. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Transfer the cooled sauce to a glass jar, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.


Green Tea Ice Cream
Matcha Aisu

Makes 1 pint

1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup cold water
1/2 teaspoon mirin
2 teaspoon matcha
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup half-and-half

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Stir the mixture over low heat to melt the sugar and then continue to simmer for about 5 minutes, or until a bit syrupy. Add the mirin, stir, and remove the pan from the heat.

In a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon of the warm syrup and tne matcha and stir until dissolved. Return this sweet tea concentrate to the saucepan and stir until completely blended. To retain optimal aroma and ensure an intense jade color, do not reheat the mixture. Stir in the milk and half-and-half and mix thoroughly.


Source: Washoku, Elizabeth Andoh

Saikyo Yaki (Miso-Marinated Broiled Fish)

"Selecting ingredients at their peak of seasonal flavor, choosing locally available foods from both the land and the sea, appealing to and engaging all the senses, using a collage of color, employing a variety of food preparations, and assembling an assortment of flavors – a Washoku approach to cooking gives the creative and contemplative cook an opportunity to satisfy his or her own aesthetic hunger while providing sustenance and sensory pleasure to others."

— Elizabeth Andoh, Washoku

Suggested Pairing:
Wakatake Onikoroshi Daiginjo Sake

Optional Side Dishes (recipes in another post):

• Yuzu Fumi Hakusai (Citron-Pickled Chinese Cabbage)
• Hijiki No Nimono (Soy-Braised Hijiki and Carrots)
• Enoki No Miso-Jidate (Miso soup with Enoki Mushrooms)
• Zakkoku Mai (Rice with Mixed Grains)
  

Saikyo Yaki (Miso-Marinated Broiled Fish - 西京焼き)
Serving Size: 4-6 servings

• 1 1/2 pounds fish fillet with skin intact, cut into 4-6 pieces
• 2 1/2 - 3 cups sweet, light miso, preferably Saikyo miso
• 1/4 cup mirin
• 1 tbsp. bits of freeze-dried yuzu peel or grated fresh lemon or orange zest (optional)
• Lemon or lime wedges (optional)
• Pink Ginger (optional)

Preparation:

• Rinse the fish pieces under cold running water, and pat them dry.
• To make the marinade, combine the miso, mirin, and yuzu peel, in a nonreactive container, and stir to mix well.
  
• Spread half of the marinade along the bottom of a wide, shallow gratin dish or other baking dish.
  
• Place a single thickness of sarashi cloth lightly into place over the marinade in the dish, so that about half of it is used to cover the marinade and you have enough extra material to enclose the fish in a single layer.
  
• Lay the pieces of the fish on the marinade-moistened cloth, being careful not to overlap the slices.
  
• Fold the extra cloth over the fish pieces to enclose them. Spread the remaining marinade over the top layer of cloth.
  
• Place a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of the marinating "sandwich" of sliced fish, pressing lightly to ensure even distribution of the marinade.
• Allow the fish to marinate at cool room temperature (no warmer than 75 degrees Fahrenheit) for at least 6 hours or in the refrigerator for up to 2-3 days.
• After the fish has marinated, to cook, preheat the broiler.
  
• Scrape away the miso marinade and remove the fish from its cloth wrapping.
• Place the fish pieces skin side up on a shallow disposable aluminum pan or on the tray of a broiler pan and place in the broiler about three inches from the heat source.
• Broil for 3-5 minutes, or until the skin starts to bubble or char in places
• Then, flip the pieces and broil for another 3-5 minutes. Ideally, the fish will be slightly crusty or golden on the surface, and pink and succulent on the inside.
• Arrange the fish on individual serving plates, accompanied with lemon wedges. If you want a spicier accent, garnish with pink ginger.
  

Preparation Notes:

• Impatient Marinating Method. Place the fish on paper towels and sprinkle both sides liberally with salt. Let stand for 5 minutes or until they begin to sweat. Blot away any excess moisture with paper towels, and follow the directions above for covering the fish with cloth. After creating the marinade, use a pastry brush to paint both sides of the cloth-wrapped fish with the marinade. Allow the fish to marinate at a cool room temperature, no warmer than 75 degrees for at least 20 minutes or in the refrigerator for up to an hour - the fish will become slippery to touch. (Note: Eek! I didn't notice that there were different measurements for the impatient marinating method...here they are: 1 tsp. coarse salt, 1/3 cup sweet, light miso, preferably Saikyo miso, 2 tbsp. mirin, 1 tbsp. sake, 1 tbsp., freeze-dried yuzu peel, crushed to a powder, or grated fresh lemon or orange zest (optional))
  
• Marinating More Makes a Difference. After marinating, the fish will develop a heady, fermented aroma; turn a golden, translucent color, and become a bit slippery and sticky to the touch. The longer the fish marinates, the firmer and more intensely salty and sweet it will become.
• Sarashi Cloth Substitutions. A single layer of sarashi cloth can be substituted with a double thickness of cheesecloth or surgical gauze.
• Fish Flavor Enhancements. While we'll be using salmon (sake) to reap the benefits of Kirk's big catch up in Alaska, this recipe can be used for other types of fish such as scabbard fish (tachiuo), Spanish mackerel (sawara), and black cod (gindara). Yuzu is an optional ingredient for this recipe, and will make any oily fish more delicate in flavor.
• Grilling Again? If you haven't gotten enough of last month's Gourmet Grill theme, you can also utilize it for this recipe. Because the marinated fish scorches easily, it is best to place the fish skin side down on the grill - cooking times and directions are otherwise the same as the broiler directions above.
  

Recipe Source:
Washoku, by Elizabeth Andoh

Additional Resources:

• Zen and the Art of Cooking [video], Gourmet Magazine
  
• Five Pillars of Japanese Culinary Tradition, Savory Japan
• A Taste of Culture: Washoku Links, Elizabeth Andoh