Instant Homework - Saikyo Yaki, Enoki No Miso-Jidate, Zakkoku Mai

While researching the Washoku theme, we decided to get our own copy of the Andoh cookbook and cook from it for Sunday dinner. Serendipity! We just happened to cook part of the menu from Kirk and Ei-Lun's post. Starting out at the Nijiya market, we got the ingredients for our dinner, which would consist of the Broiled fish, miso soup, and rice.The miso soup was pretty straight forward, and did not take long even with making the dashi. We used a medium colored, organic Nijiya brand miso for all the dishes, and it turned out well. The soup required no seasoning beyond the miso and tasted similar to restaurant soup. We used green onion as the garnish and it went well with the enoki mushrooms and tofu.The rice was even easier. Nijiya sold packets of mixed grains, pre-measured in small pouches, which you just mixed with the rice before putting in the rice cooker.
We used the "impatient" marinade for the fish, some salmon we got from the market. We couldn't find any sarashi cloth so used some stretchy gauze to cover the fish. We also put grated lemon peel in the marinade as suggested. In the end there wasn't a lot of marinade and we wondered if the fish would get any flavor at all through the thicker cloth. It turns out the fish had a nice mild flavor, but could probably use some more salt. Perhaps the sarashi cloth was the key for more intensity. Also we wondered why you wouldn't just put the marinade directly on the fish. Anyway it tasted pretty good nonetheless, and the crispy salmon skin was especially delicious. We baked the fish under the broiler for about 4 minutes on the skin side and about 1.5 minutes on the flip side. It probably cooked a bit more than needed, but was not too bad, although cutting the cooking time by a minute would probably be perfect. The fish turned out a bit blacker than ideal. We garnished the fish with some lemon wedges and shiso leaves (Yurah loves shiso leaves). All in all it was a pretty good and easy meal, and seasoning the fish more and cooking it less next time will probably make it even better.

Goma dofu (sesame tofu)

Goma dofu stands as a classic of Japanese shojin vegetarian cooking, but it is also on the menus of most fine restaurants. It is made with atari-goma, a paste very similar to tahini — the main flavoring agent in hummus. Atari-goma is ground from sesame seeds that have been roasted, while tahini is generally made from unroasted seeds. In this recipe, however, you may use either for similar results.

You may attempt to grind the sesame in a suribachi yourself, but to get the fine paste takes several hours. When using a ground sesame product, mix the oil in well that has separated and risen to the top before making your measurements.

There are many processed food starches used in Japanese kitchens, the most common is katakuri-ko (potato starch). Kuzu-ko, made from the kudzu vine, is higher quality but more expensive. Either will work, but kuzu-ko yields better results.

Soaking 20 grams of konbu (kelp) in 1 liter of water for three hours or more easily makes konbu dashi, a staple of vegetarian cooking.

100 grams atari goma
75 grams kuzu-ko
600 ml water
300 ml konbu dashi
45 ml sake
1 teaspoon salt uma-dashi* wasabi, freshly grated

1) Place the goma, kuzu-ko, water and dashi in a suribachi and mix well with the surikogi.

2) To completely incorporate and remove any lumps, pass the mixture through a fine sieve (uragoshi) into a clean, dry heavy-bottomed pan.

3) Dissolve the salt in the sake and set aside.

4) Set the pot over a medium flame and stir constantly with a rice paddle, preventing the sesame paste mixture from sticking to the bottom of the pan.

5) When the mixture thickens — after five minutes or so — reduce the heat to low and continue stirring for 20 minutes. This is the 20 minutes that makes or breaks the recipe.

6) Stir in the salted sake and pour the mixture into a shallow cake pan — a 15-cm square pan is ideal — and cool completely by placing the pan in a larger pan and surrounding with ice water.

7) When cool, refrigerate and let the tofu set.

8) Cut and serve with uma-dashi and a dab of freshly grated wasabi. The tofu will keep refrigerated for up to one week. Makes 8-10 servings.

* Uma-dashi

Uma-dashi (literally, delicious stock) may be used on many tofu items and is very good on soft-boiled eggs (yude tamago).

70 ml dashi (shiitake if making vegetarian, katsuobushi if not) 10 ml mirin
5 ml koikuchi shoyu
5 ml usukuchi shoyu

1) Combine ingredients in a pan and bring to the boil.

2) Cool and refrigerate; will keep for one week or more.

Zensai Parfait

(Thanks Kirk & Ei-Lun for letting us consult the Washoku cookbook!)

Zensai Parfait

Nearly every traditional tea parlor in Japan will offer some variation on the warm, sweet adzuki bean concoction known as zensai. My updated version of this washoku classic is a multitextured, multilayered affair I pile into tall glasses and call a parfait. I top a scoop of green tea ice cream with a shower of crunchy corn flakes (trust me on this - it works) and a spoonful of warm, chunky bean jam (think hot fudge sauce), repeat the order, and then top the whole thing off with a dollop of whipped cream and a bright yellow chestnut.

Serves 4

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream, icy cold
1 1/2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 kuri no kanrō ni (chestnuts in syrup)
1 cup Chunky Red Bean Jam (see below)
1 pint Green Tea Ice Cream (see below)
1 cup unsweetened corn flakes or other whole-grain cereal

In a bowl, using a handheld electric mixer or a whisk, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Sprinkle in the powdered sugar and continue to beat until the cream stiffens. Drizzle in the vanilla extract and beat until well mixed and stiff peaks hold their shape. Fit a pastry bag with a star tip and fill the bag with the whipped cream. Chill until ready to use.

Drain the chestnuts, returning any excess syrup to the glass jar in which they were packed.

Place the red bean jam in a small pan or in the top of a double boiler. Add 1 tablespoon of the chestnut syrup, place the pan over low heat, and heat, stirring to prevent scorching. When the sauce is glossy, thick, and slightly aromatic, after about 2 minutes, remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature, or chill in the refrigerator.

In each of 4 tall glasses, assemble the parfaits. Being with a small scoop of ice cream. Next add some corn flakes, and then spoon in some of the bean jam. Repeat to make another layer each of the ice cream, corn flakes, and bean jam.

To finish each parfait, pipe out a swirling mound of whipped cream on top, and them set a single chestnut at a jaunty angle on the peak. Serve immediately with long-handled spoons.


Chunky Red Bean Jam
Tsubu An

Makes 2 cups

3/4 cup dried adzuki beans
About 7 cups cold water
3/4 cup white sugar
2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar, preferably kuro-zatō (also known as kokutō, literally "black sugar")
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon light-colored soy sauce

As with all dried bean cookery, the beans must be carefully washed to remove straw, pebbles, or other unwanted matter. Place the washed and drained beans in a 3-quart pot with 2 1/2 cups of the water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a steady but not very vigorous simmer. Cook the beans for about 8 minutes, or until the water turns wine red. Drain the beans, discarding this first batch of cooking liquid (this procedure is referred to as shibumi kiri, or "removing astringency"). Rinse the pot to remove an aku (froth, scum, or film) that might be clinging to the sides.

Return the beans to the clean pot, add 3 more cups of the water, and place over medium heat. When the liquid comes to a boil, adjust the heat to maintain a steady but gentle simmer. Do not cover the pot. Cook until the water barely covers the beans, about 30 minutes. Add 1/2 cup more of the cold water (this is called bikkuri mizu, or "surprise water") and continue to cook over medium heat, skimming away froth and loose skins periodically. Repeat the "surprise water" treatment every 15-20 minutes for35-40 minutes, or until the beans are tender and give slightly when pinched.

Add the white sugar, stir, and simmer for 20 minutes (after the addition of the sugar, the sauce will darken and appear less cloudy). Add the brown sugar, stir, and simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the sauce becomes glossy and very thick (using a spoon or spatula, you should be able to draw a line that remains visible for several moments along the bottom of the pan). Add the salt and soy sauce (this will mellow the intense sweetness of the sauce and help "set" the consistency) and stir to mix well. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Transfer the cooled sauce to a glass jar, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.


Green Tea Ice Cream
Matcha Aisu

Makes 1 pint

1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup cold water
1/2 teaspoon mirin
2 teaspoon matcha
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup half-and-half

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Stir the mixture over low heat to melt the sugar and then continue to simmer for about 5 minutes, or until a bit syrupy. Add the mirin, stir, and remove the pan from the heat.

In a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon of the warm syrup and tne matcha and stir until dissolved. Return this sweet tea concentrate to the saucepan and stir until completely blended. To retain optimal aroma and ensure an intense jade color, do not reheat the mixture. Stir in the milk and half-and-half and mix thoroughly.


Source: Washoku, Elizabeth Andoh

Saikyo Yaki (Miso-Marinated Broiled Fish)

"Selecting ingredients at their peak of seasonal flavor, choosing locally available foods from both the land and the sea, appealing to and engaging all the senses, using a collage of color, employing a variety of food preparations, and assembling an assortment of flavors – a Washoku approach to cooking gives the creative and contemplative cook an opportunity to satisfy his or her own aesthetic hunger while providing sustenance and sensory pleasure to others."

— Elizabeth Andoh, Washoku

Suggested Pairing:
Wakatake Onikoroshi Daiginjo Sake

Optional Side Dishes (recipes in another post):

• Yuzu Fumi Hakusai (Citron-Pickled Chinese Cabbage)
• Hijiki No Nimono (Soy-Braised Hijiki and Carrots)
• Enoki No Miso-Jidate (Miso soup with Enoki Mushrooms)
• Zakkoku Mai (Rice with Mixed Grains)
  

Saikyo Yaki (Miso-Marinated Broiled Fish - 西京焼き)
Serving Size: 4-6 servings

• 1 1/2 pounds fish fillet with skin intact, cut into 4-6 pieces
• 2 1/2 - 3 cups sweet, light miso, preferably Saikyo miso
• 1/4 cup mirin
• 1 tbsp. bits of freeze-dried yuzu peel or grated fresh lemon or orange zest (optional)
• Lemon or lime wedges (optional)
• Pink Ginger (optional)

Preparation:

• Rinse the fish pieces under cold running water, and pat them dry.
• To make the marinade, combine the miso, mirin, and yuzu peel, in a nonreactive container, and stir to mix well.
  
• Spread half of the marinade along the bottom of a wide, shallow gratin dish or other baking dish.
  
• Place a single thickness of sarashi cloth lightly into place over the marinade in the dish, so that about half of it is used to cover the marinade and you have enough extra material to enclose the fish in a single layer.
  
• Lay the pieces of the fish on the marinade-moistened cloth, being careful not to overlap the slices.
  
• Fold the extra cloth over the fish pieces to enclose them. Spread the remaining marinade over the top layer of cloth.
  
• Place a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of the marinating "sandwich" of sliced fish, pressing lightly to ensure even distribution of the marinade.
• Allow the fish to marinate at cool room temperature (no warmer than 75 degrees Fahrenheit) for at least 6 hours or in the refrigerator for up to 2-3 days.
• After the fish has marinated, to cook, preheat the broiler.
  
• Scrape away the miso marinade and remove the fish from its cloth wrapping.
• Place the fish pieces skin side up on a shallow disposable aluminum pan or on the tray of a broiler pan and place in the broiler about three inches from the heat source.
• Broil for 3-5 minutes, or until the skin starts to bubble or char in places
• Then, flip the pieces and broil for another 3-5 minutes. Ideally, the fish will be slightly crusty or golden on the surface, and pink and succulent on the inside.
• Arrange the fish on individual serving plates, accompanied with lemon wedges. If you want a spicier accent, garnish with pink ginger.
  

Preparation Notes:

• Impatient Marinating Method. Place the fish on paper towels and sprinkle both sides liberally with salt. Let stand for 5 minutes or until they begin to sweat. Blot away any excess moisture with paper towels, and follow the directions above for covering the fish with cloth. After creating the marinade, use a pastry brush to paint both sides of the cloth-wrapped fish with the marinade. Allow the fish to marinate at a cool room temperature, no warmer than 75 degrees for at least 20 minutes or in the refrigerator for up to an hour - the fish will become slippery to touch. (Note: Eek! I didn't notice that there were different measurements for the impatient marinating method...here they are: 1 tsp. coarse salt, 1/3 cup sweet, light miso, preferably Saikyo miso, 2 tbsp. mirin, 1 tbsp. sake, 1 tbsp., freeze-dried yuzu peel, crushed to a powder, or grated fresh lemon or orange zest (optional))
  
• Marinating More Makes a Difference. After marinating, the fish will develop a heady, fermented aroma; turn a golden, translucent color, and become a bit slippery and sticky to the touch. The longer the fish marinates, the firmer and more intensely salty and sweet it will become.
• Sarashi Cloth Substitutions. A single layer of sarashi cloth can be substituted with a double thickness of cheesecloth or surgical gauze.
• Fish Flavor Enhancements. While we'll be using salmon (sake) to reap the benefits of Kirk's big catch up in Alaska, this recipe can be used for other types of fish such as scabbard fish (tachiuo), Spanish mackerel (sawara), and black cod (gindara). Yuzu is an optional ingredient for this recipe, and will make any oily fish more delicate in flavor.
• Grilling Again? If you haven't gotten enough of last month's Gourmet Grill theme, you can also utilize it for this recipe. Because the marinated fish scorches easily, it is best to place the fish skin side down on the grill - cooking times and directions are otherwise the same as the broiler directions above.
  

Recipe Source:
Washoku, by Elizabeth Andoh

Additional Resources:

• Zen and the Art of Cooking [video], Gourmet Magazine
  
• Five Pillars of Japanese Culinary Tradition, Savory Japan
• A Taste of Culture: Washoku Links, Elizabeth Andoh
  

K + E's Grilling Homework

Placeholder for our homework post, before our Washoku post!

Summer BBQ Theme

Each theme meet-up, I think to myself, "it can't get any better" and each time, it does! I am so impressed given our busy lifestyle and schedules, that we can still manage to update this blog, do homework, and meet up every month or so for fabulous food and conversation. This was the original intent of course, but to actually make it happen is amazing. Kudos to everyone!

What I loved most about this theme were the vibrant colors generated from the recipes we chose (colorful relish, orange peaches, yellow corn, etc), the freshness of the food, and the fun aspect of "cooking" it together on the grill in a festive outdoor setting.

Looking forward to September's Washoku theme which I'm sure will be challenging and fun at the same time.

Grilled Peaches and Cream with Shortbread Cookies and Corn Ice Cream: Piecing Together Elements

Grilled Peach with Cream, Shortbread Cookies, and Corn Ice Cream

When we decided on the theme for this next club meet-up, Lee and I were at a loss for what to do. "Grilled" desserts aren't broad-ranging in recipes when you do a search online. Nor is it easy to find much in most cookbooks. After searching, I did notice a few themes for grilling sweets: Fruits, S'mores, and using the grill as an oven to bake breads and cakes were the majority of concepts out there. After perusing a bulk of the recipes, I felt a little disappointed that the recipes I found were almost too simple--the idea mainly being that grilling brings out the natural flavors in fruits, and there's not much else to it.

So, feeling the lack of a challenge in the found recipes, I decided to test my palate by piecing together a few extra elements to one of the recipes to make a grander recipe. We wanted to do a fruit, and peaches sounded like a great flavor to start with. Then using the concept of "peaches and cream," I wanted to add an ice cream to add some creaminess, and I thought corn would go well with the cream flavor as well. So, we decided to try a corn ice cream. Also, at a previous dinner, my sister-in-law had made some great tasting shortbread cookies, and I thought that might add to the dish. I procured the recipe from her. It also turned out to have nuts in it as well, which I thought would work with the butter, corn, cream, and peaches.

Before grilling the peaches, we had to get the ice cream and the shortbread ready since the peaches would be served immediately off the grill.

Two days prior, we made a batch of the corn ice cream. Overall this was easy, having made a few rounds of ice cream batches in the past. One of the problem areas when making ice cream is during the mixing of the egg (yolks or whites) with the hot cream. If not done properly, the eggs can cook and clump up. Ice cream recipes will tell you to whisk the yolks/whites as you slowly pour in the hot cream mixture. This is easier said than done, as one hand is whisking and the other is holding a potentially large saucepan that's pretty hot. There's room for human error. A solution that worked for me was to put the eggs in a blender, and turn it on low speed. With both hands free, you can slowly pour in the cream mixture as the blender does the mixing for you. Another thing I added into the mix for this batch was some salt and vanilla extract. I might have added too much salt, and not enough sugar. After finishing, I tried it out and I'm not sure if it was sweet enough. It tasted like corn, but not so much like a dessert. However, when eaten with the sweetness of the honey and the peaches, they balanced out to work fairly well. I started another batch tonight, and adjusted the sugar level to make it more sweet. We'll see how that goes at the club meeting.

Prepping the corn for infusion with heavy cream and milk.

Adding sugar.

Adding heavy cream and milk.

Separating the egg yolks from the whites.

Adding sugar to the yolks.

Bringing the corn/cream mixture to a boil.

Blending the yolks with the hot corn/cream mixture in the Vitamix.

Thickening up the custard.

Straining out the skins.

The ice cream maker at work.

Corn Ice Cream!

Yesterday, we made the shortbread cookies. The recipe's pretty simple, basically just mixing all the ingredients together, which results in a crumbly dough. Then the heavy cream is added to get it to stick together. One thing I found is that you shouldn't add too much as you still need to roll the dough out, cut it, and be able to pick it up so you can place it on the baking pan. So if it's too wet, that's very hard to do. We tried cutting them into circles of various sizes, with a few thoughts of placing cookies under the peaches and/or into the side of the ice cream. In the end we tried both, and found that both was overkill both in presentation as well as texture/taste. For the offical BBQ, we'll probably do one or the other.

Starting the Shortbread Cookies with butter and sugar.

Mashing it all up.

Adding in finely chopped walnuts and flour.

Adding in heavy cream to get the dough to stick.

Cutting the dough into circles.

On the baking pan and into the oven.

Shortbread Cookies.

Tonight, we put all the pieces together. We got the grill going, then ate dinner. Lee halved the peaches, pitted them, oiled the cut sides, and placed them on the grill. Then after about 3 minutes, I flipped them over so the pit was upright, and we were able to put honey over the top, then a small mound of cream cheese with nuts into the recession of the pit. We also placed two different sizes of the shortbread cookies on the grill for a few minutes to warm them up. As the peaches were finishing, the larger of the shortbread cookies were placed on the plates. Then each plate got a scoop of the corn ice cream to accompany the cookie. The smaller cookies stood on the ice cream as the peaches came off the grill and landed on top of the large shortbread platform. We topped the cream cheese with a few blueberries, and the dish was complete!

Firing up the grill.

Grilling the peaches open face down.

Adding honey after the peaches are done on the pit side.

Adding cream cheese.

Final plating.

Overall, the dish came together pretty well. The nuttiness of the cookies worked well with the corn-flavored ice cream which balanced out the natural sweetness of the peaches and the honey. Now to figure out a beverage pairing...