Saturday, February 13, 2010

Tarte Au Citron et
Sorbet D'Oranges Sanguines

This lemon tart recipe uses a sabayon method, in which the eggs are first cooked with the lemon juice and sugar over hot water, then the butter is gradually incorporated—an easy method that results in a consistently good lemon custard or curd.

The rich, tart sabayon is housed in a pine nut crust, then topped with a clean and refreshing blood orange sorbet, which, in turn, is topped by candied citrus peel.

Suggested Pairings: Sauternes, Muscat, Alsace Riesling, Alsace Gewurztraminer

Tarte Au Citron:
Serving Size: Eight

Butter and flour for the tart pan
1/3 recipe Pine Nut Crust (optional)
Lemon Sabayon
  • 2 large eggs, cold
  • 2 large egg yolks, cold
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 6 tbsp. (3 oz.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
For the Crust:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter and flour a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom and refrigerate it while the oven preheats.

Remove the tart pan from the refrigerator. Use your fingertips to press the chilled pine nut dough evenly over the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Trim off any excess dough.

Bake the crust for 10 to 15 minutes, then rotate it and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until it is golden brown. Remove the crust from the oven and let it cool while you make the filling. (There may be some cracks in the crust; they will not affect the finished tart.)

For the Sabayon:
Bring about 1 1/2 inches of water to a boil in a pot that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the bowl you will be using for the sabayon. Meanwhile, in a large metal bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks, and sugar for about 1 minute, or until the mixture is smooth.

Set the bowl over the pot and, using a large whisk, whip the mixture while you turn the bowl (for even heating). After about 2 minutes, when the eggs are foamy and have thickened, add one-third of the lemon juice. Continue to whisk vigorously and, when the mixture thickens again, add another one-third of the lemon juice. Whisk until the mixture thickens again, then add the remaining lemon juice. Continue whisking vigorously, still turning the bowl, until the mixture is thickened and light in color and the whisk leaves a trail in the bottom of the bowl. The total cooking time should be 8 to 10 minutes.

Turn off the heat and leave the bowl over the water. Whisk in the butter a piece at a time. The sabayon may loosen slightly, but it will thicken and set as it cools. Pour the warm sabayon into the tart crust and place the pan on a baking sheet.

Preheat the broiler. While the sabayon is still warm, place the tart under the broiler. Leaving the door open, brown the top of the sabayon, rotating the tart if necessary for even color; this will take only a few seconds, so do not leave the oven. Remove the tart from the broiler and let it sit for at least 1 hour before serving. Serve at room temperature or cold.

Optional Accompaniments:

Pine Nut Crust
Note: Yields three crusts - because this dough uses only one egg, it is difficult to make in a smaller quantity. Freeze the extra dough for another time.
  • 10 oz. (2 cups) pine nuts
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1 lb. (3 cups) all-purpose flour
  • 8 oz. unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preparation:
Place the pine nuts in a food processor and pulse a few times. Add the sugar and flour and continue to pulse until the nuts are finely ground. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Add the butter, egg, and vanilla extract and mix to incorporate all the ingredients (the dough can be mixed by hand or in a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment). Divide the dough into three equal parts. Wrap each piece in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes before using. (The extra dough can be frozen, wrapped well, for up to 1 month).

Blood Orange Sorbet
Serving Size: One Quart
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 3 cups strained blood orange juice or fresh orange juice (from about 12 oranges)
Preparation:
Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Transfer to a medium bowl and allow the syrup to cool to room temperature. Add the orange juice and refrigerate until cold.

Transfer to an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Candied Citrus Peel
Serving Size: 1 Cup (200 G), Drained
  • 4 large lemons or oranges, preferably unsprayed
  • 2 cups (500 ml) water
  • 1 cup (200 g) sugar
  • 1 tbsp. light corn syrup
  • Pinch of salt
Preparation:
With a vegetable peeler, remove strips of peel 1 inch (3 cm) wide from the lemons or oranges, cutting lengthwise down the fruit. Remove just the colorful outer peel, leaving behind the bitter white pith. Using a very sharp chef's knife, slice the peel lengthwise into very thin strips no wider than a toothpick.

Put the strips of peel in a small, nonreactive saucepan, add enough water to cover them by a few inches, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a gentle boil and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain the peel, and rinse with fresh water.

Combine the 2 cups (500 ml) water, sugar, corn syrup, and salt in the saucepan. Fit the pan with a candy thermometer and bring to a boil. Add the blanched peel, reduce the heat, and cook at a very low boil for about 25 minutes, until the thermometer reads 230°F (110°C). Turn off the heat and let the peel cool in the syrup.

Once cool, lift the peel out of the syrup with a fork, letting the syrup drain away, and serve atop ice cream or sorbet.

Recipe Sources:
Bouchon, 2004
The Perfect Scoop, 2007

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