Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Bananas Foster: A Vietnamese Variation



Created at Brennan's restaurant in New Orleans in 1951, this classic dessert was named after loyal customer, Richard Foster, who served with Owen Edward Brennan on the New Orleans Crime Commission, a civic effort to clean up the French Quarter. Richard Foster, owner of the Foster Awning Company, was a frequent customer of Brennan's and a very good friend of Owen. Little did anyone realize that Bananas Foster would become an international favorite and is the most requested item on the restaurant's menu. Thirty-five thousand pounds of bananas are flamed each year at Brennan's in the preparation of its world-famous dessert.

In the traditional recipe, firm, ripe bananas are sautéed in a rum-infused caramel sauce, then flambéed in front of diners and spooned over vanilla ice cream. For our Vietnamese variation, we'll be pairing the bananas and rum-infused caramel sauce with Toasted Coconut ice cream topped with whipped cream, chopped peanuts, and cubed, Vietnamese Coffee Jelly.

Suggested Pairing:
Moscato d'Asti, Asti Spumante, Late Harvest Riesling, Sherry, Tawny Port, Madeira

Bananas Foster
Serving Size: 4 servings
Preparation:
  1. Combine the butter, sugar, and cinnamon in a flambé pan or skillet.
  2. Place the pan over low heat either on an alcohol burner or on top of the stove, and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves.
  3. Stir in the banana liqueur, then place the bananas in the pan.
  4. When the banana sections soften and begin to brown, carefully add the rum.
  5. Continue to cook the sauce until the rum is hot, then tip the pan slightly to ignite the rum (Note: for extra pyrotechnics, throw a pinch of cinnamon onto the sauce as it flames.)
  6. When the flames subside, lift the bananas out of the pan and pair two pieces with each portion of ice cream.
  7. Generously spoon warm sauce over the top of the ice cream, top with whipped cream, peanuts, and coffee jelly and serve immediately

Toasted Coconut Ice Cream (Kem Nước Cốt Dừa)

Serving Size: 1 pint
  • 1 cup dried shredded coconut, preferably unsweetened
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • Big pinch of salt
  • 1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
  • 5 large egg yolks
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, or 1 teaspoon rum
Preparation:
  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Spread the coconut on a baking sheet and bake for 5 to 8 minutes, stirring it frequently so it toasts evenly. Remove it from the oven when it’s nice and fragrant and golden brown.
  2. In a medium saucepan, warm the milk, 1 cup of the heavy cream, sugar, and salt and add the toasted coconut. Use a paring knife and scrape all the vanilla seeds into the warm milk, then add the pod as well. Cover, remove from the heat, and let steep at room temperature for 1 hour.
  3. Rewarm the coconut-infused mixture. Set a mesh strainer over another medium saucepan and strain the coconut-infused liquid through the strainer into the saucepan. Press down on the coconut very firmly with a flexible rubber spatula to extract as much of the flavor from it as possible. Remove the vanilla bean halves (rinse and reserve them for another use), and discard the coconut.
  4. Pour the remaining 1 cup heavy cream into a large bowl and set the mesh strainer on top. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm coconut-infused mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.
  5. Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the cream. Mix in the vanilla or rum and stir over an ice bath until cool.
  6. Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.



Coffee Jelly (Thạch Cà Phê)
Serving Size: 4 servings
  • 2 cups Vietnamese coffee
  • 1 tablespoon gelatin powder
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 4 tablespoons water
Preparation:
  1. Mix the gelatin powder and the water in a small cup.
  2. Put the coffee, sugar, and the gelatin in a sauce pan.
  3. Stir well over low heat until the sugar and gelatin dissolve.
  4. Strain the mixture and pour into ice cube trays or a square container (if used for a topping) or serving cups if the jelly will be served directly from the container.
  5. Cool the jelly in the refrigerator until it is set.
  6. Serve by cutting into smaller cubes if used for a topping or directly from the container topped with whipped cream or condensed milk.
Recipe Sources:
Brennan's New Orleans, by Chef Paul Blangé
The Perfect Scoop, by David Lebovitz
About.com Recipes, by Setsuko Yoshizuka

Additional Resources:

8 comments:

  1. sounds like a lot to put together ahead of time (ice cream and the jelly) BUT it sounds positively delicious! how do you plan to make the coffee? in the little metal presses or some other way?

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  2. thanks, hahna! we're experimenting a bit with this combination of flavors, so hopefully it will turn out OK.

    since we own one already, and to save some time, we might try making the coffee for the jelly using the aeropress method as decribed in the VietWorld Kitchen post first. if that doesn't produce the desired flavor, we'll try the phin metal filter method instead.

    as far as final presentation goes, we haven't quite decided yet whether or not we're going to plate the jelly in small cubes on top of the bananas foster and coconut ice cream (banana-split style), or if we should serve the jelly and ice cream in the coffee-cup method as shown above, adjacent to the bananas foster...we'll try and play around a bit with both methods before our next meeting...more to come!

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  3. im a sweets fiend, and i adore coffee jelly so i am looking forward to seeing how you decide to plate.

    ive been thinking about getting the aeropress. i probably wont get it because i dont drink coffee often enough, but that gadget sounds so neat! do you love yours? do you also have an espresso machine? if you have both do you find yourself turning to one more often than the other?

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  4. We ended up making the coffee jelly just like the cup photo above, topped with whipped cream instead of ice cream. We topped the Bananas Foster with the ice cream.

    I actually tested two variations of the coffee jelly for our first trial - both the standard Vietnamese Coffee blend, Cafe du Monde, as well as a Four Barrel Coffee Panama Duncan Estate. Surprisingly, the CDM version turned out better. I think it's because it was a darker roast and thus, more flavorful.

    Another variation in the final product was that the first time I made this, I just made the coffee jelly and found that to be way too overpowering on its own - even topped with whipped cream.

    Subsequently, for our group dinner, I made a condensed milk jelly as the bottom layer in the cup (the recipe is in one of the links), then topped it with the coffee jelly to retain the black coffee look in the serving cup. I think the condensed milk jelly layer helped to tone down the coffee flavor a bit and make it taste more like a sweet dessert.

    ...photos forthcoming!

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  5. Oops, forgot to answer your second question! At home, we have:

    1) Aerobie's Aeropress
    2) Nespresso's Le Cube capsule machine
    3) Sweet Maria's Clever Coffee Dripper

    They all have their place:

    #1 is great for straight, single-cup espresso anywhere, anytime.

    #2 is nice at home sometimes when you need a flavor-filled respite from straight espresso. The capsules are all sorts of different strengths and flavors. I like the Roma and the Vivalto Lungo. k prefers the strongest, Ristretto. Unfortunately, you need a separate milk frother.

    For the easiest, every day, caffeine fix, #3 is our go-to.

    Hope this helps!

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  6. boy i know this is super late in coming but i just saw this (im now subscribed to all comments, so this wont be a problem anymore). i think you just SOLD me on the clever coffee dripper! had never seen/heard of them before tonight!

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  7. Hi hahnak,

    I think you are our only follower (thanks!), so I wanted to let you know that we have moved.

    Catch all the action over at our new home: The French Laundromat @ Posterous

    Glad to hear that you're getting the clever coffee dripper - we love it!

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  8. yes! got the coffee dripper! have been enjoying it! also have subscribed to posterous emails. thanks for letting me know! its so nice to follow along even though i live in another state!

    ReplyDelete