Saturday, March 20, 2010

P&J's Oysters Rockefeller

"As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans."

— Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast

P&J Oyster Company was present at the creation of many legendary dishes of New Orleans' Creole cuisine. One such is the most famous oyster dish of them all – Oysters Rockefeller, invented in the 1880s at Antoine's by the restaurant's proprietor, Jules Alciatore. The appetizer was considered so rich that it had to be named after the richest man of the day, John D. Rockefeller. Al Sunseri of P&J has his own way with Oysters Rockefeller. While his grandfather, Alfred, was a close friend of the Alciatore family, the secret recipe was never divulged.

Suggested Pairing: Blanc de blanc Champagne

...and this is for lagniappe, because we can't very well have a New Orleans night without the official cocktail of NOLA – the Sazerac. We'll be preparing it as a bonus, paired with raw oysters as an accompaniment.

Serving Size: 12 appetizers / 6 main-course servings
  • 48 shucked fresh oysters, with bottom shells reserved
  • The juices ("liquor") from the oysters
  • 2 (10-ounce) packages frozen spinach, thawed
  • 1 bunch green onions, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 2 celery stalks, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 1/4 head iceberg lettuce, cut into medium chunks
  • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
  • 1 cup grated Pecorino-Romano cheese
  • 1/2 cup Italian-style bread crumbs
  • 1/4 cup anisette liqueur, such as Herbsaint or Pernod
  • Juice from 1 lemon
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Preparation Notes:
  • The most practical approach to preparing oysters on the half-shell, whether they're to be served cold or hot, is to assemble a "tray" in advance that can be used to cook them or serve them – or both. Spread a 3/4-inch bed of rock salt evenly onto a large rimmed platter or baking pan. Firmly set the shells into the salt. This not only stabilizes the shells so that they won't tip, but the salt also helps retain both heat and cold. Cover the tray with plastic wrap and store at room temperature; or, if the oysters are to be served cold, chill the tray in the refrigerator before serving.
  • Create both mixes in advance in separate bags, and place them in the refrigerator until ready to bake. On serving day, go to the fishmonger, get him to shuck some oysters for you (or master the art yourself!) and hook you up with crushed ice or rock salt. At home, distribute the two mixes on top and bake.
Preparation:
Prepare a sufficient number of half-shell trays to hold 48 oyster bottom shells, as described above, using oven-proof baking pans or rimmed baking sheets. Set aside.

Strain the oysters over a bowl to remove grit and to separate them from the liquor. Set the oysters and the liquor aside.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

Squeeze as much water as possible from the thawed spinach and chop it finely.

In a food processor, pulse the green onions, celery, and lettuce until finely chopped.

In a large saucepan, heat the butter over medium-low heat. Add and sauté the chopped vegetables and spinach for about 10 minutes, stirring. Stir in the cheese and bread crumbs. (The mixture will be very thick.)

In a separate saucepan, poach the oysters in their liquor over medium-low heat until their edges just begin to curl, 3 to 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the oysters from the saucepan to a bowl and discard the poaching liquid.

Place one oyster on each of the bottom shells on the prepared half-shell tray(s) and cover each with a spoonful of the sauce. Bake until the oysters are bubbly and the topping begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Remove the oysters from the oven and sprinkle a dash of Herbsaint and a few drops of lemon juice on top of each. Serve immediately.

Recipe Source:
The P&J Oyster Cookbook, by Kit Wohl and the Sunseri Family

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